I have a leak coming through my basement wall beneath where the drain pipe leads through the wall and out to the main sewer.  I thought it might be ground water, but noticed recently the leak seems to come back most aggressively when we are using high amounts of water in the house at the same time (like both showers running simultaneously).  The water coming from the wall looks clean though, and doesn’t smell like sewage water as I would expect if the drain pipe were leaking, but then again, I know nothing about plumbing, really.  On the other side of this wall, in the yard is a covered concrete slab patio which extends about 12′ from the foundation wall and out into the yard.  About another ten feet from that is a tree which is approx. 50′ wide by 50′ tall.  All of this is directly above where I believe the main drain runs into the sewer system.  Also, the house was built in ‘51 and the pipes leading out look to be cast iron.  I don’t even know who to call for help at this point, but I know the water saturating my block basement wall must be STOPPED!  Any help you can offer will be appreciated.

- Bill

Bill, you may have two separate problems. It might be best to first determine if you have a leak in either your water service or a partial plug of your sewer line (with a sewer back up, you would typically experience the back up directly into your home). I would suggest getting a pressure test on your water service to determine if it has a leak. Make sure it’s performed by someone reputable and that they have the right equipment. This is the best place to start –determine if this is the problem (and repair it), it may take care of the seepage issue. If not, and water is coming in from the outside, you probably have a subsoil drainage problem where ground water is not being displaced by your basement’s waterproofing. In that case you should consult a waterproofing company.

-Brian

A sinkhole showed up in my garden, so I dug a hole until I found the problem - a small crack in the underground sprinkler system PVC pipe.  The crack is about a quarter-inch long and emits a fairly strong spray. What is the easiest way to correct the problem?  Will epoxy and duct tape work?

-Dave

Dave, a crack in PVC pipe will continue to spread –much like a crack in a car windshield. Rather than replacing the entire length of pipe you can dig down and cut out a section to replace, I’d recommend at least a foot length.

-Brian

I just found out that a slab foundation summer house we just purchased has orangeberg (fiber conduit) drain pipes.  I am told by my plumber that these drain pipes will need to be replaced within the next 10 years; but I do not want the expense and headache of tearing out the cement slab to replace it.  Can you offer any suggestions?  I understand that the orangeberg is very brittle and will not withstand an epoxy sleeve. Please help!

-Gigi

Gigi, because Orangeburg pipes are made of layers of wood pulp and pitch they’re not repairable. Epoxy lining is not an option, but if enough of the Orangeburg pipe is intact, it’s possible that sock lining might be. Sock lining consists of a felt sock being pulled through an existing pipe and then inflated/expanded to fill the width of the old pipe. The sock cures in place and you have a new pipe inside of your old one. I recommend contacting a reputable trenchless technologies company that offers sock lining services. You may be able to find someone through the website of the North American Society for Trenchless Technology, www.nastt.org.

-Brian

What would the difference be between seepage vs. busted pipes? For insurance purposes?

-Jennifer

Jennifer, since I’m not an insurance expert, I’ll defer to a qualified insurance agent –Tim Eckley of Elite Insurance Coverage, who has a simple explanation:

Seepage usually occurs slowly over time and may be the result of normal wear and tear or deterioration which is not covered by most insurance policies. A broken pipe is sudden and accidental and is covered by most policies. Whether or not your insurance will cover the repair of the affected pipe(s) or the damage to property or structure is something you’ll need to find out from your insurance agent.

-Brian

My shower pipe is leaking from the top. I think that it is the threading on the pipe because we have removed the shower and bought a stopper to screw on the pipe but it is still leaking through. There isn’t a hole in the pipe it just we can’t stop the water coming through.

-Correen

Correen, I’m not sure if you’re referring to your shower head or the other end of the shower head arm. I suggest that you remove the arm, apply some Teflon tape (the yellow type which is approved for gas is much better than the white type and you’ll need less of it because it’s thicker) to the threads –wrapped around clockwise 2-3 times. Gently press the tape into the threads and reconnect. Tighten first by hand and then with a wrench –use a piece of heavy cloth, rubber, or even duct tape around the surface of the metal to protect from scratching it with the wrench. Carefully tighten but make sure not to over-tighten, and then test to see if it’s leaking. If it is, try tightening it a little more. You can try the same thing with the shower head.

-Brian

The home we live in was built in 1947 and still has some cast iron sewer drain pipe in the basement.  One of the pipes looks like it has a slow leak in just one spot.  How can I clean this up and plug it?

-Janet

Janet, the answer depends on where the damage is –it it’s a leak at the joint with another pipe or if there’s a hole in the line. To repair a hole in a cast iron pipe, you can try a good two part epoxy or simply large hose clamps and a piece of rubber. If it’s a leak at the joint of a cast iron pipe, then you’ll need a plumber to come in and repair as it may be a poured lead joint. If it’s at a threaded section of the pipe, taking apart and resealing the joint may work, but after 51 years the pipe is probably in very poor shape.

The best way of dealing with a leak, especially in a sewer drain pipe, is to replace the section that is damaged. The last thing you want is the damaged pipe to have a major failure (leak or break) at some future date and spill sewage all over your basement.

-Brian

Do you see epoxy lining emerging as the preferred choice for pipe rehabilitation for apartments, condos and commercial buildings?

-Tejas

Tejas, epoxy pipe lining can be the perfect solution for pipe problems in apartments, condos, and commercial buildings. It’s gaining popularity as an effective alternative to the more traditional repipe because it’s safer for drinking water than unlined metal or cement pipes; is often less messy, costly, and time-consuming; and eliminates the corrosion that leads to blocked or leaky pipes.

-Brian

In the municipal market, can epoxy lining only be used for wastewater, or can it be applied to drinking water pipes as well?

-Tejas

Tejas, epoxy lining can certainly be used in both types of pipes. For example, CuraFlo’s sister company, RLS Solutions, offers coatings for restoring and rehabilitating water mains (drinking water delivery), as well as deteriorated wastewater infrastructure.

-Brian

I have a small leak coming from my shower. It is behind the one handle that controls temp. I took off the handle and all the caulk around it, and it looks like there might be a small crack in the plastic. Can I just put epoxy or something else on it? I don’t want to take the ceramic tile off to replace it.

-Jan

Jan, if there is a crack in a part of the fixture, especially in a part that’s plastic, you should replace at least that part. Repairing the part might work, but plastics can be difficult to repair and the potential damage the leak may cause if it reopens may not be worth it. The epoxy we use is only for lining pipes, but there are other epoxies and compounds that can be used in plastic repairs. I would contact the store where you bought it, or the manufacturer, to see if a replacement part is available.

-Brian

Sometimes after the water has been run once for a bath, if the water is ran again shortly after it comes out with a yellow tint. Does this indicate there is something wrond with my pipes or maybe my hot water heater?

-Jay

Jay, When the flow of water coming into your bathtub is shut off, it becomes stagnant and comes into contact with tuberculation in the pipes. Tuberculation is the buildup of deposit (scale or rust for example) in a pipe -possibly from corrosion. It can cause water discoloration and even low water pressure if builds up too much. Having someone clean out the pipe will take care of the discoloration and epoxy lining it will prevent it from happening in the future.

-Brian