I bought a house in May, in the state of Texas inspectors don’t have to insect sewer lines and I took a chance and lost. The sewer line was old clay pipe. had a contractor to come out and fix 68 ft but the he found out that he would have to go to the main he wanted more money which was 10 grand, also the main was 14 ft down. When he found out I could not come up with it he left me with a hole in the ground and no sewage. I have been using a pick and shovel for the last 3 weeks or so to try to do it myself but I am out of energy to even look at it. So what is my next move?

–Dennis

Dennis, you should contact the municipality that you live in, in most cases you (the homeowner) are only responsible up to the property line and not all the way out to the main. At 14 feet down, this is not a do-it-yourself project. Digging a trench, especially one that deep, requires proper excavating equipment and shoring. Without shoring, the trench could collapse/cave-in, filling with soil –leaving you and anyone else in it buried alive. Click here to read TrenchSafety.org’s great piece (illustrated) on why trenches cave-in.

An alternative to digging a trench would be one of the several types of trenchless technologies available, these replace or restore failing sewer pipes with only limited excavating. The North American Society for Trenchless Technology’s website, www.nastt.org, is a good place to start looking for companies that offer different trenchless solutions.

-Brian

The water draining from my central air conditioning is causing the PVC pipe to reverberate with a thump, thump, thump as it drips into the sink.  I have been told it is cold water sludge build up in the pipes.  I have tried cleaning the pipes with hot water and bleach with no success.  Any suggestions?

-Don

Don, the PVC pipe thumping/reverberation is probably starting at the unit and being transmitted down the pipe. It’s only a drain with nothing in or on it that could actually create a noise or vibration. I recommend you call a company that services central air units; they should be able to diagnose.

-Brian

I’m considering making an offer on a house, but there’s an issue with the main sewer line. I’ve been told by the realtor that the owners have been having to have the line snaked every two months because it keeps clogging and backing up. What could be causing this? If I do make an offer on this house, I definitely would not be interested in continuing to have this done again and again. What possible pipe repair solutions are there? How much would you estimate it would or should cost to replace the sewer line? The house is about 10 feet from the street.

-Joseph

Joseph, having your sewer line snaked out that frequently is an unnecessary expense and hassle. My guess is that one of three things is happening:

• [tree] roots are penetrating the line (snaking would trim the roots in the pipe, but they’d just keep growing back),

• the pipe is not graded properly (waste isn’t moving downhill) sediment will start building up as soon as it’s cleaned out, or

• the pipe is broken and some parts have shifted, this would create areas where sediment will start building up as soon as it’s cleaned out.

While a visual inspection would help you figure out what the underlying problem is, I don’t know that the added cost of the inspection would be worth it. If the line runs under grass (no asphalt, trees, other obstacles), it should run between $150-200/ft. to replace it. An alternative to replacement would be sock-lining. It’s usually less-expensive than replacement, but you should get an estimate (should be free) to make sure. I don’t know what the current owners are paying for the snaking, but a new line ought to pay for itself in no time.

-Brian

Can you use PVC pipe for the hot water as well the cold in a house? If so, what exactly should I be looking for as far as the hot water goes?

–Charles

Charles, PVC is used for water service lines to homes and buildings and comes in sizes larger than CPVC pipe which is more often used for internal plumbing. CPVC is an option for use with hot and cold water, but I’m not a fan of plastic pipes for domestic water as there are some potential issues if not installed properly, such as pipe expansion, gluing of the fittings and being near electrical wires. Whether you’re installing pipes in a new home or replacing your existing pipes, I would recommend either copper (which is more expensive) or PEX.

PEX is one of the most versatile, easy-to-use plumbing systems on the market today:

• You can use it with hot or cold water.

• There are adapters that let you connect it to existing galvanized, copper, and other pipes.

• Most plumbing leaks and system failures occur at joints in fittings. But since PEX can bend around most corners without a coupling or fitting, it requires fewer fittings which means opportunity to leak and installs faster.

• PEX flexibility also allows it to expand and contract more than other types of pipe. Increased capacity for expansion makes PEX more burst resistant.

• Complete, easy to use repair kits are available for all PEX systems.

• Much like a circuit breaker for your plumbing system, PEX systems have a shut-off valve at each supply line. Having a shut off at each line allows the repair person to leave the rest of the system operational while working on one line.

Here’s a link to a great short video, Working with PEX Piping with Plumbing and Heating Expert Richard Trethewey, This Old House television.

-Brian

There is a bad spot in the cast iron sewer pipe under the living room floor. I can remove the vanity in the bathroom next to it and cut out the floor to expose about 4 feet of the pipe upstream of it. Can I just slide in sections of 3″ PVC into it past the problem area and re-flange this toilet in the 3″ PVC since this is the last or furthest from the sewer exit on the other side of the house. There are no other drains into it until the other side of the living room. I had it filmed and know the exact location of the bad pipe. The whole house is a terrazio floor and I don’t want to cut it in the living room.

-Diane

Diane, sliding a piece of new pipe into the old cast iron pipe is not an option. But, you can remove the existing damaged cast iron pipe and replace it with a section of PVC or ABS pipe. You’ll need to use an approved transitional fitting (plastic to cast iron) and a toilet flange on the floor.

-Brian

Why does brown water come out of our pipes after we haven’t used the water for a couple of days? (Plumbing is only 3 years old).

-Jake

Jake, colored water (brown in your case) coming out of a faucet or tap is a result of high levels of dissolved or suspended corrosion by-products (e.g. rust or lime-like) caused by a reaction between the metal of the pipe and the water. When a solid forms and settles on the wall of the pipes, it’s called tuberculation. This happens mostly with galvanized and as water sits in this pipe when you’re not using it (even only a couple days) it becomes discolored. Since your plumbing is only three years old, it would seem to indicate that the water in your area may be chemically aggressive towards the metal your pipes are made out of. To deal with tuberculation, you could repipe (replace your pipes) or you could have the pipes cleaned out and epoxy lined (as is done with CuraFlo’s system) –this would take care of your immediate problem and prevent it from coming back.

-Brian

Your water is probably safe to drink, but it can stain your laundry. It’s recommended that discolored water be tested so that you know what kind of contaminants you’re dealing with and if they’re safe to consume. You might also want to contact your local water supplier to get more information about the water in your area and if anyone else is experiencing what you are.

-Dr. Dave

We have radiant heat (all copper tubing) in our floor. We have a leak in the system. Can your product be used to repair it? Also would your product affect the transmission of heat in the floor.

-Ryan

Ryan, epoxy lining technology is great for protecting a new system and can assist with repairing an older system with one or more small diameter leaks less than 1/8” in size. It’s not the cure all for all pipe leaks: the pipe must be metal; it must be structurally sound; and the leak must be from a pinhole, and not a crack, split or some other catastrophic failure. If the leak is too large, a repair must be made prior to the lining procedure. A certified CuraFlo professional can work with your system’s installer to determine the best way to make the repair(s).

Once in the pipes, the epoxy lining does provide some insulating properties (i.e. it will slow down the heat transfer), but this is not significant enough to interfere with the performance of your radiant heating system. The circulating hot water temperature of in-floor radiant heating systems are typically between 120° to 125° Fahrenheit (48.9° – 51.7° Celsius). Most epoxies are effective at these temperatures, and will allow your system to perform as designed.

-Brian

Our galvanized pipe system is slowly leaking rust at the front faucet, my husband is concerned that our system could blow anywhere in the walls and we wouldn’t know it until we had a mess. Would Curaflo[’s] method help with the structural integrity of our pipes? We’ve almost agreed to re-piping with copper L 1″ super quality pipes in our 30 yr old here in Orange County, Calif.

-Janice (Orange County, CA)

Janice, rusty water coming out of galvanized pipes is an obvious symptom of “tuberculation” –dissolved minerals in your water reacting with the metal of the pipe, causing corrosion and buildup on the wall of the pipe. Reduced flow (the buildup reduces the inside diameter of the pipe) and low water pressure are also typical symptoms of this condition. The buildup doesn’t necessarily mean your pipes are leaking or will leak, but typically they will. Leaks usually start small, but can spread or evolve into major leaks.

CuraFlo’s process eliminates the need to repipe your entire system. The first part of CuraFlo’s epoxy pipe lining process cleans out the rusty mineral buildup, stopping the rusty water you’re seeing. Any section that is too weak to be lined is replaced. Then CuraFlo’s safe-for-drinking-water epoxy pipe lining is applied; this keeps the metal of the pipe from coming into contact with water –preventing buildup from forming and corrosion from happening again. Pipes are restored to better-than-new condition.

Pipe replacement is an option, but it often takes longer and includes the mess and disruption of cutting open walls and removing pipes. Once done, you’ll need to replace walls (or tiles or floors) and make cosmetic repairs. In addition, water will still be coming in contact with the metal of your pipes – it’s a matter of time before corrosion happens again.

You can get in touch with a CuraFlo professional near you, who can help you assess your problem by visiting www.curaflo.com, or calling 1-888-4CuraFlo.

-Brian

Do city and county governments approve of using CuraFlo epoxy pipe lining, or any other companies’ epoxy pipe lining?

-Don

Don, the epoxies we use for the lining of plumbing systems have been tested and certified to meet the ANSI/NSF Standard 61 which is the strictest health standard for products coming in contact with drinking water. Based on this certification, Regional Health Authorities have approved the lining.Epoxy lining processes can also be certified to meet industry-recognized standards. Our lining process is certified to meet IGC-189, which is the standard set by the International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO). The codes established by this organization are recognized and adopted by many regional authorities.

Many regional municipalities have been using epoxy lining in their own water mains and reservoirs since the early 1990’s and in water treatment plants since the 1950’s. They value this technology for its ability to preserve water quality and restore and protect easily eroded and corroded surfaces.

Special note: A mechanical engineer with an understanding of epoxies, corrosion and metallurgical experience is your best bet for a detailed evaluation of your existing plumbing system. They can test review and write the specifications for the epoxy lining (upgrading) of your water delivery system.